The closer the clearance the more resistance to detonation. With all this there is little expansion of reciprocating components such that fairly tight clearances can be used between the piston top and cylinder head face. I used SRP professional pistons which are forged, forged rods and forged 3.75" stroke crank. 005" in the hole or flush with the block deck. The block should be milled to deck height or. Divide 3.75" stroke by 1/2, then add the connecting rod length than add the 1.125 compression height and it should come out 9.00". With 6" connecting rods, pistons with 1.125" compression height are needed. Going to 3rd is an option but costs time and I'm not good at downshifts so reliably increasing the redline a bit is the goal. I normally shift to 2nd shortly after launch and stay in that gear for an entire run. This is an auto-x car, thats why I'm trying to optimize the redline for 2nd gear operations. I already have high rev valve springs but don't trust the stock rods to handle 6500+ rpm very often. I want to be able to run a little over 70mph without requiring a shift to 3rd, so redline needs to be >6500rpm. With my curent gearing setup redline (6300 rpm) is at ~68mph in 2nd gear. I'm shooting more for higher rpm reliability than anything. This is not a 383 build and will never see "juice", strictly NA, so I'm not worried about the piston strength. I'm going to replace the stock powered metal rods anyway and go over size on the bore so might as well get a better rod/stroke ratio while I have it apart. They're easily available so I'm thinking I'll go this route. You're correct, my math is wrong, it turns out I have to use pistons with a compression height of 1.25" or 1.26". So, what do you guys think of these numbers and this idea? Using the 383 stroker pistons provides a deck clearance of. 036"Ī set of 5.875" rods could be used and give a total length of 9.355" 049" thick giving a piston to head clearance of. 013 above the deck.Ī normal head gasket is. The stock parts provide a deck clearance of. Stock stroke of 3.48" and a rod length of 6" gives 9.48" Stock stroke and rod length are 3.48" and 5.7" respectively, this gives a total length of 9.18"ģ83 stroke is 3.75 and rod length is 5.7", this gives a total length of 9.45" Run these parts with the stock crank that has a 3.48" stroke. Get a set of "stroker" pistons meant to be used to build a 383, 3.75" stroke. I started looking for new rods as I want to build a bottom end that can handle higher rpm than the stock 95 LT1 and got to thinking it may be possible to build a long rod setup. I'm planning the rebuild my LT1 this winter and have an idea I want to bounce off you guys.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |